Everyone tells you to visit Angkor Wat when you come to Cambodia. Don't get me wrong—watching the sunrise behind those iconic towers is a travel rite of passage. But fighting through a sea of selfie sticks at 5:00 AM can make an ancient wonder feel like an amusement park. That is exactly why I left Siem Reap behind to head deep into the northern wilderness. I was searching for Koh Ker: a forgotten capital swallowed by jungle, home to an incredible, root-strangled temple and a