I never expected Cambodia’s most life-changing travel experience to involve rats. But at the APOPO Visitor Center near Siem Reap, I met the HeroRATs—tiny African giant pouched rats trained to sniff out landmines and save lives. Watching them work during a live demo was mesmerizing: focused, efficient, and almost playful. These small creatures cover dangerous ground faster than humans, without triggering the mines. My visit opened my eyes to Cambodia’s hidden history and the i